On our recent Drift Away trip to Nias and Mentawais we came
up with a new surfing manifesto...
Big love to all our drifters & resident surf yogi Nat Fox.
More from our trip to follow but for now ...
DRIFT AWAY Surfers Manifesto: For Surfing and Life
Don’t be scared to try.
Getting pummelled/schmooshed/failing is usually not as bad as you think it’s going to be.
You have to “be in it to win it”. Going to the line up will eventually result in a wave but sitting too wide will result in missing them. Don't miss those golden opportunities!
Watch the horizon, it tells you when waves are coming: if you can’t see them yet wait for your eyes to adjust - this could take years. The hardest thing is reading them, but if you don’t look, you can’t get better at seeing.
Don’t, whatever happens, forget your (reef safe) sunscreen: slip, slop, slap!
In the words of Ben Howard: “Keep your head up”.
Sometimes you have to fight the current, and other times you can just go with the flow: wisdom is knowing when to do which.
Find your marker and DON’T DRIFT!
Get out of the impact zone - it’s called that for a reason.
The waves are never as big as you think - until you’re on it. And when you see them on film, unfortunately they always look smaller.
But hey, it’s not the size of the wave that matters, it’s the capacity for joy, respect and gratitude in your heart when you’re in the water. The more you surf, the more your capacity grows.